RE: 1967 'VW Westy' Trivia
Dad owned two of 1st generation VW vans, but just plain seats-and-windows versions. The first one had been the 2nd van sold in the US by VWoA, but he bought it used a few years later. A '53, IIRC (?). No gas gage, just a reserve tank. He bought them for work vans (radio-TV service shop), but we used them for picnics and other family outings, and one of my buddies and I did 'backyard campouts' in one for a while. And we used the 2nd one as a hauler for family camping outings. Ah, the good ol' days!
Jim, "Cynicism means never having to say you're disappointed."
RE: Generator Dies when start button is released
LeRoy, take the model # and other info and go to the funroads site. Order a service manual. They're well written, and pretty comprehensive.
Jim, "My karma ran over my dogma."
RE: New B------has anyone checked out the "krystal"
Looks like both the Sprinter and the Ford F-550 based C are just computer-generated graphics of "what we'd do if we ever got an order" more than anything that they've actually built.
Jim, "I ate diner at a real family-style restaurant last night. Every table had a fight going on."
RE: Onan Microlite 3600 lp resonator
I've added the Onan resonator to two 2.8's Microlites so far, and they're pretty much 'clones' of the 3.6 Microquiet. It makes an audible difference. I've _read_ from a former poster here that Sears carries the same thing for $28, but I don't have a part number or any idea of where to start looking, and it may have been vaporware.
The best thing I ever did as far as generator quieting is to buy the Onan installation manual and check all the mounting and venting requirements for my model. As installed by the factory, I had 'way more ventilation opening in the compartment door than was required, by at least a factor of 6. Reducing that helped a lot with mechanical and air flow noise. And I was able to safely add rigid f'glass insulation to the compartment while maintaining the necessary clearances around the noisy green box. I'm down to 57-58 db(A) at 21 ft from the exhaust now, but that's in a compartment mount.
Y'all that are complaining about the mechanical noise on an underhung mount may want to try hanging an insulated baffle down in front of the cooling air intake. I'd try an 'L' shape, sort of wrapping around the intake side and end of the box. But check the manual for clearances.
Also check to be sure that the exhaust pipe is not fastened rigidly, but is free to shake around. That's necessary to let the isolation mounts under the engine do their thing.
Last tip... go to HD and pick up some neoprene washers to fit on the mounting bolts that go into the black pan thru the side plates. Use blue Locktite to keep from tightening them down to where the washers become really solid. This won't help much, but may take some of the 'buzz' out of an underslung mount.
Jim, "If you want breakfast in bed, sleep in the kitchen."
RE: What did you add to your MH to make RV'ing easier for you?
After two Class B's with the Fantastic Fan vents (which I respect very highly), I finally got wise and spec'd the Tiger with a MaxxFan vent. Why? Because it can stay open 24/7, in all weather (OK, haven't tried it in a blizzard ;)) without getting water in the RV. Stored, or driving or camping in the rain, it's awfully nice to be able to have a little air circulation. This should not be confused with either the vent covers or the big bulky fixed-position vent that they have. Closed, it's quite unobtrusive. Open, it's still pretty sleek.
Jim, "Grow your own dope. Plant a politican today."
RE: 06V23J: Specific Kind of Diesel Needed???
.....
Please...yes, I can use LSD (not that I ever did... :W AND ULSD or
No....I can only use one or the other.
Please just circle yes or no on your answer. :p This is not a multiple guess question.
Seems like you never got a simple answer before the phlegming war broke out.
If it's the older I-5 (pretty sure it is), yes, you can use LSD or ULSD.
If it's a newer V-6, No, AIUI, you cannot use the LSD, only the ULSD. Repeat, AIUI.
Jim, "Just ignore the device strapped to my ankle."
RE: How Do You Fix Small Window Screens?
....
If your frame is falling apart, take it to the shop; they can easily make a new copy.
I'm not sure, but I think the aluminum framing material is different from the varieties used in houses. It may take a special order by a screen shop, or a trip to a custom van shop, or maybe a factory order, if it needs a new frame. But it doesn't sound like it's that bad.
Jim, "When climbing the ladder of success, be sure it's against the right building."
RE: Help with pricing. 1990 27' Travelmaster
One place to get some idea is www.rvtraderonline.com. Find similar-sized and -aged units there and see what the asking price is. You'll have to make your own guess, but in these parlous times, maybe deduct 15-25% from the asking price to arrive at what it finally sold for.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
RE: How Do You Fix Small Window Screens?
I think yours is a Chevy RT? Which windows? I think the back side windows are in removable frames that you could take to a screen shop. The other windows probably have Bug Barrier brand screens, which have the screens screwed to the vans sheet matal or plastic window trim. I _think_ the screen is put into the frame with spline, but I'm not sure. But I'd advise taking it to a shop if you're unsure what to do.
Jim, "I just can't wait for instant gratification."
RE: Generator Won't Start
I know kg knows more about Onans than me (not hard to do ;)), but try one thing first. Start the coach engine first, then try the generator. If it starts, you just had low battery voltage or a dirty/loose connection, even with the new battery. It's probably not the solution, but it's too easy not to try.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
RE: Newbie where are the water drains?
Picking a few nits.... Water heater bypass valves are generally for winterizing, not flushing. The water heater drain is of different material depending on the brand of WH, at least current ones are. Plastic for Atwood, metal for Suburbans, and the plug on the Suburban has a tank-protecting anode rod on the inner side. Fresh water drains come in two (?) varieties... tank, and plumbing. FW tank drain is usually on the tank at the lowest point. FW plumbing drains are more likely to penetrate the floor, with the actual valves probably above.
But these are generalities, and manufacturers sometimes have their own way of doing it, and it may vary with era, too.... :)
Jim, "I know what you're thinking, and you should be ashamed of yourself."
RE: Leak around rear door HOW TO FIX
I guess yours is a Dodge... OEM means 'original equipment manufacturer', so the Dodge dealer, who's almost surely going to have to order it, and take who-knows-how-long. Check your gasket. On my '99/'00 RT D190, the upper right (passenger's) corner of it had come out of position. It had some little yellow plastic dowels that held it in position, and some had let loose. I applied some yellow 3-M weatherstrip & trim adhesive, and reseated the dowels. The leak subsided, but IIRC never went away totally.
Jim, "There will be a time travel seminar at 3 PM last Saturday."
RE: DIY Rear slide out on a B
Mark, depending on how far along your conversion is, you might do better to just buy a used 19' cargo van and make a fresh start.
Jim, "My cat is smarter than your honor student."
RE: Okay! So Here Come The Questions!: Washer/Dryer in View??
I kind of wonder how well the tank capacities would have supported a W/D unless you stayed with full hookups. And needing both water & sewer would have limited your choices of CG's... more costly in the long term, I'd think.
Jim, "I believe that paper clips are the larval stage of wire coat hangers."
RE: DIY Rear slide out on a B
I recall once or twice entertaining frantasies of adding 'slide-out porches' to the side and/or rear of my last RT... just a flat platform pulled out from under the floor to let you sit a bit higher, and stay out of the mud. Quickly decided it wasn't even remotely practical, and the benefit gained would be largely illusory.
I suspect the problem with a canvas-sided slide would be security in parking-lot overnighting or bear country; maybe more the feeling than anything real. But a hard-sided slide would be a lot harder to design and build.
The added rear weight might also hurt handling, especially for vans with long rear overhangs... too much 'junk in the trunk', so to speak.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
Here a rental, there a rental, everywhere a rental..
In maybe 25 miles of local driving to run errands, I saw _three_ different rental C's. One on I-40, one on US 70, and one in a parking lot just off I-240. Interestingly, the one in the parking lot was on a Ford F-series chassis. No cab-coach connection, though, darnnit. Yeah, I looked. ;) All were smallish units, probaly under 25'.
These were all in the city limits. I know this town is a popular tourist destination, but in my 42 years here, I've never seen that many in a short trip across town and back. I wonder if there's a shift in how families take their vacations, or if it was just coincidence?
Jim, "I just can't wait for instant gratification."
RE: Primary Vehicle
Having a good backing camera system with the camera mounted up high and aimed so that the rear bumper is just included in the view will take a lot of the anxiety out of parking situations. Having good blind-spot mirrors will take some of it out of heavy multi-lane traffic. Adding a Fresnel lens to the rear window may be over-gilding the lily, but it helps a little more. Yep, I had all three on my '02 RT C190, which I could have used as a 3 1/2 seasons 'only' vehicle.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
RE: generator exhaust
I think the intent is to use the 'chimney effect' caused by the heat & velocity of the exhaust gases to draw in more air at the not-tight connector, and let the mixed air and exhaust rise. Thus the name 'gen-turi', from venturi. This prevents back pressure from being high, and keeps the stack cooler.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
RE: Purchasing a Conversion for full time living
One thing not asked yet is how you picture using this purchase... boondocking or staying in CG's? Mostly longer-term in one area, or driving long distance frequently?
Most CG's are gonna get costy unless you get longer-term rates, but staying in one place for a month or more argues for a trailer, or a larger A or C RV and a small toad car or a scooter for local touring. Freebie stays (Walmarts, truck stops, true boondocking, etc) are fine if you're going to be moving often, but the small tank sizes of a B may be a problem.
Driving every day, the fuel economy & parkability of a B is likely to overcome the drawbacks.
Do a _lot_ of research. Read all the forums here. Visit a few dealers, but with a firm pledge not to buy yet. Visit some campgrounds, and talk to owners of various types of RV's. Make copious notes. Don't give in to the 'shiny-new-neat-gottahavits' anytime soon.
Jim, " 'Paper or plastic?' 'Do you mean the bags, or how I'm going to pay?' "
